Brisbane to Istanbul

Hello loyal followers. Apologies for the delay in posting. We've been packing so much into each day, but here we are on a beautifully drizzly Saturday morning in London (our home for the next two weeks) in a cosy cafe with wi-fi - the perfect time to blog.

Those of you who have followed us on our previous travels will notice a difference this year. Rather than darting here and there, we've made a conscious decision to stay put here. Each year when we visit our favourite city for just a few days, we wish we'd spent longer. So this is the year. The year of LondonPhloss.

We are topping and tailing the visit with two exciting cities, though. We travelled here via Istanbul and will venture home through Warsaw - a lovely blend.

The journey so far...

Saturday 14 December 2013

Our journey got off to somewhat of a false start. After rising very early for our flight from Brisbane to Istanbul via Hong Kong, we were just putting on our flight socks ready to leave home when we got a text from Qantas – our flight was delayed by 5 hours. The good news was that we could go back to bed for another few hours! The bad news was our layover in Hong Kong had now been reduced to less than an hour – not very promising for the successful transfer of luggage from Qantas to Turkish Air. As we disembarked in Hong Kong, ground staff were waiting for us and made us run through the airport to make the plane to Istanbul. Before getting on board we had to sign a document to say we understood our bags might not necessarily get there with us! It was an eager wait at the baggage carousel in Istanbul, but all was well. Our two familiar suitcases had made it on to the flight with us, which was fortunate given that our coats were inside and it was a freezing cold morning in Istanbul.

Sunday 15 December 2013

We packed heaps into our first day in this fascinating city. Having visited 23 years ago, Louise noticed some familiar sights along with the inevitable changes. The warmth and genuine hospitality of the people hadn’t changed a bit though.

We walked and walked – from the old town across the Bosphorous to the new town. It was very early on a beautifully clear Sunday morning, and it seemed as though only we and the local fishermen were out and about. It wasn’t too early for some traditional Turkish sweet delights though! We couldn’t resist the temptation.

 

Spent the afternoon enjoying Aya Sofya – built in the early 500s. A wonderful example of Byzantine architecture, it started its life as an Eastern Orthodox cathedral, spent some time as a Catholic cathedral and was then a mosque for about 500 years (until the 1930s). After being desecularized, it became a museum in 1935.

Visited another fascinating sight – the Basilica Cistern. Built in the 6th century, and lying 150 m below the ground, this is one of several hundred cisterns that exist below the streets in Istanbul. Apparently 7000 slaves built this incredible structure, which was designed to provide a water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople. It holds around 80000 cubic meters of water. 336 marble columns hold up its ceiling.

 Spent the evening wandering with the locals through the colourful Spice Market.

Monday 16 December 2013

There’s no such thing as a sleep in here. From 6am, the wailing starts from all the local minarets, calling people to prayer. It’s wonderfully atmospheric – reminds you of where you are before you even open your eyes.

Unfortunately the rain found us today, but it didn’t stop us enjoying a fabulous morning at the Topkapi Palace, where rich architecture, incredible Ottoman treasures and magnificently decorated interiors abound. The palace was the main residence of the Ottoman sultans for around 400 years, from the mid 1400s to the mid 1800s. At the end of the Ottoman empire in 1923, the palace became a museum.

 

Spent the afternoon at the Grand Bazaar where exotic goods have been haggled over for around 550 years. It is one of the world's largest and oldest covered markets, with over 60 streets and more than 3000 shops. Managed to escape without a carpet in tow (much to the disappointment of the many merchants who offered us tea and called out ‘Aussie Aussie – where you from?’ as we walked past their stalls. 

  

Finished the day at a beautiful little restaurant that we had read about and wanted to visit. The entire ceiling is covered with beautiful Turkish lamps – a great effect.

 

Tuesday 17 December 2013

A little rainy again this morning, but it cleared up to a lovely day. First stop today was the fabulous Blue Mosque, so named because of the gorgeous blue tiled interior. This amazing structure was built in the 1600s and has over 20000 hand painted Iznik tiles decorating its walls.

 

Next we walked to Suleymaniye Mosque – less frequented by tourists and yet probably our favourite of all the mosques we’ve seen. It was built between 1550 and 1558.

  

Exited the mosque grounds via the back gate and suddenly found ourselves off the beaten track in a part of Istanbul the tour buses don’t visit – steep, windy, narrow streets lined with houses that were literally falling down but were inhabited by families. Notwithstanding there was quite a sense of community and the children were playing happily in the street.

Caught one of the very efficient trams to the Galata Tower which affords fabulous views over Istanbul. Fortunately the rain had completely cleared allowing us to enjoy the full viewing experience.

All this sightseeing certainly increases the appetite – and just as well. After stopping at a great little family run café down a cobbled laneway and ordering some local beer, wine and a cheese platter, we were presented with a cheese mountain! Heaven.

 

The highlight of the day, though, was attending an authentic whirling dervish ceremony. We were certainly the odd ones out as everyone else in the congregation chanted together as the dervishes did their thing. Absolutely amazing.

Had dinner at one of the local restaurants near our hotel in the old town. Istanbul is full of cats - all very friendly and well cared for. One decided to share the table with us - how could we refuse?

Despite common sense telling us we should head back to the hotel to pack for our early morning start tomorrow, we couldn’t resist having one last night out in Istanbul. Found a great little pub and sampled some more local fare. Some things just have to be done.

Wednesday 18 December 2013

After a very easy flight from Istanbul, we arrived in London with enough time to enjoy an afternoon outing to Chelsea. Wandered the high street and then checked out this year's Christmas tree at our favourite pub. Fell asleep on the bus on the way home - absolutely shattered after a long day's travel. Worked out we'd been up since 3.30am London time so no wonder...

Thursday 19 December 2013

Don't think we've ever walked so much. Started by walking to St Paul's (a short distance from home), down Fleet Street to Charing Cross - up through Leicester Square to Oxford Street. Walked via South Molton Street in Mayfair, Saville Row, Bond Street, Carnaby Street, Neal's Yard and Soho to Piccadilly. Ended up at Bloomsbury. All in all, eight hours of walking. It feels great to be back. There was a bit of a freak storm in the evening -  thunder, lightning and light hail - not often seen in London. Had to seek shelter in a wonderful establishment by the name of the Jugged Hare. Very lively. It seems all of London is having work Christmas parties tonight!

Friday 20 December 2013

Set off to explore a new neighbourhood today. Caught the tube to Tooting Bec and walked all the way back through Balham to Clapham. So much diversity only streets apart. Picked out lots of places we'd like to buy if we won lotto!

Spent the afternoon in Knightsbridge. Not even lotto would help to buy here! Had the usual champagne at Harvey Nics and did some high street shopping.

Had a fabulous night out with our friends Tim and Stephen - attending our annual performance of a Matthew Bourne ballet at Saddler's Wells. This year we were lucky enough to see his world renowned interpretation of Swan Lake - a very fine production. As usual, had a great time with our mates.  Our London sojourn is off to a fantastic start!